Roseate House, Aerocity
By Neelima Agrawal with Keerat Bawa
“Food, glorious Food” is the ditty playing in one’s head at Kheer, the newly opened Indian fine-dining restaurant at Roseate House in Aerocity. Good wholesome fare, served in ample portions sans mist and fog and whistles. We were happy to note that the Chefs at Kheer have steered clear of the current fad of artistic gastronomy, designed to entertain the visual rather than feed a hungry diner. Kheer offers north Indian cuisines, including popular street food from around Delhi.
The interiors of Kheer are strikingly beautiful, with stone carved geometric and floral panels on walls. Ankur Bhatia commissioned the well-known Japanese designer Noriyoshi Muramatsu, founder of Studio Glitt to do up the interiors for this new fine dining destination. Muramatsu has also designed the beautiful interiors of Zuma in New York and all its nine international locations. The large spaces in Kheer can accommodate 224 seats, which are divided in three distinctive areas, separate private dining area and a live kitchen. Suitably bedazzled by the décor, we looked forward to experiencing what the chef had to offer. And happily, were not disappointed at all. There is something really comforting about having a meal that flows with the clarity of the familiar, yet tantalizing in that it notches up the flavors to perfection. This was all about something as simple as mixing great food with great service, which often gets entangled in other parameters and misses the bus – so to speak.
My recommendation for the one with a sweet tooth – keep room for the namesake dessert ‘kheer’. The tasting platter offers three flavors of gil-e-firdaus (made of bottle gourd but truly delicious), javvarisi paysam and raskheer.
The Chef had very carefully curated the menu to include something from east to west to up north. The chicken dish from Maharashra, Murg Kolhapuri, Bengal’s sole fish dish Kasundi machhi, the Tandoori Murg, the delicately flavoured sea bass cooked in a banana leaf, Meenpollichathu from Kerala. Lamb chops and Murgh tikka – done to the turn.
Leading from the front in the vegetarian segment is the Gucchi morel from Kashmir. Very filling starters like the veg-on-sticks subz-ki-seekh, the nutty flavoured croquettes of beet and pine nut chukundar chilgozeki tikki, the usual suspects – spinach and cottage cheese turned up as Nadrupalak and Paneerkesar-e-pukhtan. The assorted lentils mandatory in Indian cuisine, yellow dal, dal makhani, kuni dal. Special recommendations for Dal dhuandar, which is smoky Rajma or red kidney beans.
They have a straightforward tale to tell via a dinner table, and a great concept of food and service. The menu clearly shows the extent of research that must have gone in to the process.
The Shahi Kulfi made of Gulkand or rose petals awaits another visit.