Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020
by Meher Castelino
What will men wear when Spring/Summer 2020 arrives? That is a question the stronger sex has begun to ask quite regularly just like the glamorous women have done each season. During Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 (LMIFW SS 2020) season organised by the Fashion Design Council of India in New Delhi from October 9 to 13 at the Major Dhyan Chand National Stadium, men’s wear made a great impact as hard-core designers who always ensured that the Indian male should dress well, unveiled their stylish creations. Fabrics moved from staple cotton, Khadi, organic options to leather, linen and silk along with embellishments that revolved around traditional embroidery, prints, foiling, texturing and the use of upcycled plastic.
BAREEK – A SUSTAINABLE APPROACH
The Bareek label created by IIMC graduate Aman Singh was one of the finalists during the Circular Design Challenge in February 2019. The aim of Aman is to work towards “Weaving 2.0” which will not be restricted to just handloom. At LMIFW SS 2020, the brand presented a prét line and placed it above the “Bareek Essentials” Segment. Created from a mix of Jamdaani in West Bengal and Ikat in Telangana the base of the collection was natural fabrics like Khadi and GOTS certified organic cotton.
The Bareek label wanted the men to dress in muted tones of just black, white and grey. Kurtas were teamed with bundies sporting galactic spheres motifs and slim trousers with flecks of white embroidery. The colour blocking for shirts could be neutral black and grey once again with discreet motifs, while trousers had stylish turn ups. The western smoking jacket was given an oriental feel in grey with a black piping and soft fabric belt. For an adventurous look Bermudas could be colour blocked in grey and black and topped with a black, zippered biker’s jacket. Bareek also brought a quirky look of a slim two-tone trouser – one leg in ikat weave and another in all black to match the kurta. The grey sherwani with black chevron piping on sleeves was a smart addition to complete the look. The silhouettes for Bareek were slim but not fitted with comfort being of prime importance.
COUNTRY MADE – A FASHIONABLE TRIBUTE
The brand created by designer Sushant Abrol presented a line that was a tribute to the memory of his late brother Samir Abrol. Very stylish but at the same time very masculine in form and structure, the thigh length jacket with abstract motifs was a smart wardrobe addition. Multiple pockets made an appearance for smartly cut, belted coat with shirt collar and dotted embellishments. Shades of black, white, brown and beige were the base of the garments. Waistcoats appeared with impressive abstract splashes in white on chocolate brown while textured shirts in matching tones with trousers completed the look. For something quite experimental, a three-piece trio of trousers, bundi and thigh length shirt were all in deep brown with serpentine dots all over that could create a fashionable stir globally. Biker’s jackets appeared sporadically but were worn with long shirt-kurtas and slim trousers.
HUEMN – FASHION SWAG
Teaming up with Pepsi the Huemn label by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty has always been many steps ahead of the fashion scene. Their design mantra pushes their creativity but for Spring/Summer 2020 their tie-up with Pepsi ensured that they stuck to a more casual, wearable story of athleisure for men with a strong fashion statement that all the denim fabrics were made from recycled ocean plastic, proving that there can be a world where plastic is waste.
Youthful and trendy the long, frayed, hem denim shirt with jeans was a great unisex offering. Oversized sweatshirts over baggy shirts with loose trousers fitted this Swag fashion theme. A profusion of multi-layered pockets ensured that trousers were not just worn to cover the legs but can turn into utility luggage carriers. In addition simple vests and long-sleeved sweatshirts would make great fashion options for men who want to emphasise their relaxed, casual, athleisure preferences but at the same time presented global construction.
JENJUM GADI – TRIBAL TOUCHES
After his debut in the Gen Next Show at Lakmé Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2008, Jenjum Gadi’s fame soared to great heights. Born in the village of Tirbin in Arunachal Pradesh he graduated from Wigan and Leigh College, Delhi. For Spring/ Summer 2020 Jenjum brought his tribal colours to the forefront along with motifs and his culture. His predominantly black line was innovative with embroidery and texturing that added to the pizzazz of men’s wear. There was a great mix of textiles along with stitching, draping and layering. His two-piece suit was a visual presentation of amazing embroidery. The jacket with slim contrasting notched lapels looked perfect with the black kurta-shirt. The front embroidered trousers in black and white had ‘mix and match’ possibilities. The all-black trio of biker’s jacket over long shirt and flowing skirt with a hint of tribal weaves was impressive. An embroidered waistcoat worn with asymmetrical, zippered kurta over sheer mesh trousers would need a strong-hearted, adventurous dresser. Embellished trousers, heavily embroidered zippered blouson over black shirt or shorts were other stylish options.
MANOVIRAJ KHOSLA – ENERGETIC DYNAMIC FASHION
When Manoviraj Khosla designs men’s wear he ensures that the man is not only well dressed but makes an arresting sartorial statement. His “Jungle Metal” line was for the youthful male who is energetic with a dynamic personality. The focus was on a variety of colourful biker’s jackets with fancy trousers. Embroidery and detailing along with various printing methods gave the buyers an urban look, which was on the wild side. A surprise addition was Kantha embroidery, which was merged seamlessly with metallic leather; animal prints, lots of foiling and denim. The double- breasted, cropped jacket in leopard print with giant notched lapels set the mood of the collection. Another silver zippered one with black, floral, embroidery was matched with silver/black striped fitted trousers. A multi-coloured heavily embroidered bomber, made an impressive entry with jade green velvet pants, while the black/silver colour-blocked one had a formal look. The cropped, gold-foil jacket was worn with black asymmetrical kurta and zippered churidars to create an Indo-west fusion offering.
PARESH LAMBA SIGNATURES – SPLASH OF COLOUR
From haute couture to prét to bespoke clothing, the Paresh Lamba Signatures label with Paresh Lamba as Creative Director, has dressed men since 1998 in Bangalore. Catering to a national and global buyer the Spring/Summer 2020 collection was a predominantly white offering with bold slashes of red brush strokes on the jackets, trousers and shirts. The three-piece look of white, cropped jacket over matching kurta-shirt and pants with red multi stripes strategically placed on white was eye-catching; while a double-breasted jacket, trousers and Tee had bold abstract colour splashes. A lemon suit was highlighted with stripes of leather belts for closure but a blue suit with a lounge jacket had an attached waist pouch as a stylish accessory.
PAWAN SACHDEVA – FEARLESS TRENDSETTING FASHION
Pawan Sachdeva’s men’s wear has always been eye-catching but with great designing sensibilities. For the next season Pawan saw his men’s wear called the “Trailblazer” as a rugged, rustic look with ombré tones and intricate patterns. For variety there were trench coats and baggy jackets with multi layers of garments to enable the wearer to mix and match stylishly. The colours moved from sombre dark grey and black to bright denim blue, mustard and green. The cloudy grey/black four-pocket button less jacket with matching trousers had a black inner. The shorts and four- pocket, jacket combo was once again in grey/black hues. The short boiler suit with zipper and elasticated waist was just right for the summer heat; while a hoodie Tee with a belted ombré jacket and matching trousers or a black/white bomber all gave a stylish but comfortable fashion vibe.
RIMZIM DADU – SCULPTED PERFECTION
When it comes to fabric sculpting and material manipulation, not many can match Rimzim Dadu’s skills. Introducing men’s wear for Spring/Summer 2020 she allowed her construction and detailing techniques to appear with her steel wires and metallic cords to present a fluid collection that was inspired by the waves and ocean ripples. Staying true to ethnic men’s wear, Rimzim had Nehru jackets, Sherwanis and bombers. Bringing an experimental touch to the pale pink kurta with diamond shape moulding techniques, the designer added the classic purple bomber with black Tee and shorts. For ethnic wear the black metallic sherwani was a great look with just the right amount of Rimzim Dadu touches.
SHIVAN AND NARRESH – AN ORIENTAL SOJOURN
The “Seoul Series” by Shivan and Narresh was inspired by the prints and beauty of Korea, which the designers interpreted on their men’s wear to give it a colourful vibrant vibe. Five new prints were seen in shades of Rosy Hibiscus, soothing Akua, ruby, Kebia, glittering Gyum and ivory Hyan. There was an arresting touch of tradition with oriental emphasis for the resort/beach wear. The black/white striped boiler suit could appeal to both sexes, while printed bird motifs for shorts with a cool beach robe, draped printed capris and matching long-sleeved shirt were interesting additions to the male wardrobe. The designing duo also brought in zippered leather pants with heavily, embroidered, printed bomber jackets, and a multi coloured broad striped puffer jacket that looked perfect with innovative zippered black pants. In addition there were sweatshirts, short puffer jackets, swimwear and button less shirts for a refined but fun line of clothing.